Jewish quarter/surreal view

IMG_5843, originally uploaded by bratislavadavis.

16-08-07

Jews have resided in Prague according to documentation since 970 CE and a community was established by the end of the 11th century. The Jews were persecuted during the crusades of 1096 and then during the seizure of the castle in 1142. In 1215, the Forth Lantern Council issued a verdict against the Jews requiring them to wear distinctive clothing and forbade them from holding public office. Conditions gradually improved under Emperor Charles IV and his son as they allowed the Jews to be money lenders in exchange for a large annual fee. But in 1255 and 1262 respectively, Czech king Premysl Otakar II issued new edicts that called for protection for the Jewish community by prohibiting violence against the Jews and their property which included cemeteries and synagogues. Jews also were allowed to practice their religion freely again and had permission to set up their own administration. The Jewish quarter entrance was blocked off so that the Jews would be protected as direct subjects to the monarchy. Still, despite the protection called for the Jews, there were attacks, such as during Easter of 1389 when the Jewish quarter was attacked, with many of its constituents killed by barbarians.

The tour of the Jewish quarter began with a visit to the Spanish Synagogue which was built over where the Old Shul- where the oldest synagogue in Prague was situated. The Old Shul influenced by the Enlightenment became a reform synagogue in 1837 and played organ music which is prohibited in traditional Orthodox congregations. The gentile, Czech composer Frantisek Skroup who composed the Czech national anthem and the first Czech opera “The Tinker” was placed in charge of the music program at the synagogue. However, due to the growing demands to join the reform congregation and the Old Shul lacking space, the decision was made to tear down the synagogue and build a new one known as the Spanish Synagogue due to its Moorish architecture. It was dedicated in May of 1868. The synagogue is known for its lavish dome that dominates the interior of the building along with galleries that surround three sides. The synagogue was seized by the Nazis during World War II and was used as a horse stable and as a warehouse. The building was returned to the Jewish community in 1955 and was eventually made into a museum which highlights the history of the reform community in Prague and its sad saga during the Holocaust.

The old Jewish cemetery which consists of thousands of graves is the most prominent site in the Jewish quarter as it dates back to the 14th century. Rabbi Loew who is famous in legends as the creator of the mythical golem is buried here along with many other prominent rabbis such as Mordecai Maisel, David Oppenheim and Yaakov Moelin known as the “Maharil” for his codification of religious customs.

The Jewish town hall has the famous clock that goes counter-clockwise and uses the Hebrew alphabet instead of numbers. The Israeli embassy is nearby. After the tour, I went to the most famous synagogue nearby which is the Old-New Synagogue.

The Old-New Synagogue is the oldest surviving synagogue in Europe and dates to the 13th century. It is here that according to legend, the remains of the golem created by Rabbi Loew are stored upstairs in the synagogue's rafters. Inside the synagogue, one can see the chair that Rabbi Loew sat in while he studied. Up near the ceiling is a red banner that has a golden star of David with a yellow hat which was the insignia of the Jewish community of Prague. The Old-New Synagogue was the lone synagogue that I saw that is still in actual use as a place of worship and is not a museum. It was also the most enjoyable as I really liked seeing the history and there is even a gothic twin nave inside.

I finished my sight-seeing by going to the top of Town Hall Tower which provides the best view of the historic city of Prague. I was able to examine the Art Nouveau architecture from up high.